A taste of proper spring weather and it is damn near impossible to think of little else but fun in the sun. So it was all rather good timing for the quirky and playful collections on show for the third designer series for MSFW. Labels like Gorman, Alice McCall and Nevenka were part of this wearable and sweetly feminine show. The collections were rife with splodges of colour, loads of florals, digital prints, teeny-weeny polka dot bikinis and hot pants that would make Daisy Duke proud. There was much frill and flounce, hemlines see-sawed and it was all kept nice with belted waists, lots of lace, collared shirts and softly tailored jackets.
Life with Bird opened with a glam 70s vibe replete with cute playsuits, breezy frocks and digital geometric prints. Soft tailoring in a beige trench and chinos lent some easy structure, while paneled leather trousers added some attitude.
Alice McCall took the florals, and then raised them. Stiff flower adorned material was fashioned into a strapless dress and shorts, while a pretty fifties style frock added a touch of grown up glamour. A piano print on a fluttery-sleeved dress was quirky and silky shorts with lace detail and sequins added a hint of boudoir sex appeal to the summery vibe.
It was nice to see some men on the catwalk. Leopold opened with some crisp and classic chinos and a navy schoolboy cotton blazer with contrasting piping. Tighty whiteys (I don’t want to mislead, I do mean shorts, not jocks!) were paired with checked cotton shirts made for playing golf in. The ladies weren’t forgotten either, with jewel coloured, gathered frocks in silk that were kept prim with ribbon sashes.
MSFW veteran, Bettina Liano, was sweet and peachy keen in pale apricot and pinky frocks that tiered and flounced in frilly, blousy layers of silk and chiffon. Cutouts and exaggerated necklines added some drama, while denim shorts and frocks added a nice cowgirl touch. Flashes of leather and leggings with criss-cross detail kept it from appearing too girly.
Nevenka had a bit of a luxe prairie aesthetic also, with crochet and rough-hewn lace detail and scalloped hems. Toggles and bobbles on the frocks added some whimsy to paint blotch colours on Maxi dresses and graphic prints on sheer fabrics. High and somewhat severe necklines were a touch serious but swirly prints kept it light.
Summer was in the air with Gorman. Gelati colours and polka dot frocks and bikini’s were disarmingly cute, while coloured Swedish hasbeens paired with socks had just the right amount of hipster twee. A pair of salmon high waisted dungarees and clusters of cloth-covered badges on jersey tops had tomboyish charm. Tiered frills on spaghetti strap tops and full calf length skirts are just made for sweet beachy fun.
Obus made khaki, lime and murky yellow almost criminally covetable. Belted frocks, oversized florals, cardis and a buttoned chambray shirt were ladylike. I’m also quite certain I spotted a skort (shorts built into a skirt.) Rolled-up dungarees, hot pants and perforated leather allowed the Obus lady to live a little.
Arabella Ramsay’s jagged lace and long frocks with high collars had a bit of Big Love vibe about them, while sharp shoulders worked into a Breton stripe top injected some Parisian cool. A sweet daisy print was re-imagined into a disco daisy frock that brought the glitz with sequins galore.
Manning Cartell paired heavy-duty lace like pulled wrought iron with sheer, high collared tops, sleek trousers and stretchy pencil skirts. While a beautiful sequined vest, like a bejeweled piece of amour would add glamour to any old thing.
Knock ‘em out feminine glamour is what Nicolangela does best. Floor sweepers in silk and chiffon, with tiered layers, gathering and lace details on the front and back, ensured that you would not only make an entrance, but an exit too in one of these frocks. Knife edged pleating was ladylike and tonal grey layers and gathering on the final frock created mesmorising movement.
Wayne Cooper finished off the night with a collection of stiff and shiny cocktail frocks with a focus on sculptural necklines and the shoulder. A floor-length black silk frock was red carpet worthy, with a frilly neckline that ended the feminine collections on a sophisticated note.