Journalist Charles Starmer Smith gets more than he bargained for when stepping into a lion's den.
"You'd better put on an old jumper as you might get some blood on
it," said our driver, with a grin, as we clambered into the Land Rover
to visit the lion sanctuary at Legends resort, deep in Limpopo
Province, in the far north of South Africa.
I laughed
it off as casually as I could, before slipping on the most padded
jacket I had. This was a date with a lion after all.
Savaged ... travel writer Charles Starmer Smith is attacked. Photo: telegraph.co.uk
Sitting
alongside the camera crew and my fellow presenter, here with me to make
tourism videos on South Africa, I took solace from the fact that the
lion I was going to visit was called Mapimpan, which means “little
baby” in Shangaan, and it was little more than a year old.
The
lion was just a few days old when Arrie, the sanctuary's resident lion
expert, found it wandering the roadside, injured and malnourished.
It
had been raised with a view to being released back into the wild. It
was made clear that if I wanted to go into the lion's enclosure it
would be entirely at my own risk. It was a chance I was prepared to
take.
“You cannot show him any fear. And, above all,
don't turn and run. He'll think you're prey,” said Arrie as we
approached Mapimpan's enclosure. I gulped and nodded.
Arrie
entered the pen, as the cameras began to roll. Heart surging, I slipped
inside and the gate locked behind me. I approached slowly and bent down
to stroke Mapimpan's wiry underbelly. It pawed at my shoes, rolling on
to its back. “He likes you,” said Arrie with a smile.
I
began to relax, chuckling with disbelief. Then Mapimpan emitted a low
growl as it circled around me. “Remember it just wants to play,” said
Arrie, sensing my fear.
That was when the lion clamped its jaws around my calf, its teeth sinking into my flesh.
It
rose on to its haunches, towering above me and I was spun into a waltz
with a 300lb predator – as I pushed desperately at its throat to keep
away its jaws. This did not feel like playing.
With a
series of fierce clips to Mapimpan's nose Arrie managed to get it to
release me. I had to fight the overwhelming urge to run. But I
remembered Arrie's warning. So I stood there motionless, my heart
thudding, my lungs gasping for air.
Mapimpan seemed to
be more docile now. I exhaled with relief. But then it slipped back
through Arrie's legs, and was on me again, its teeth bared as it lunged
towards my neck. I raised my forearm to divert its jaws from my face,
then felt razor-sharp teeth ripping into my shoulder.
The next few seconds were a blur of claws, teeth and shouts as I stumbled around, helpless against the power of this animal.
Not
a moment too soon, Arrie managed to free me from Mapimpan's clutches,
cornering it on the far side of the enclosure. It was my cue to leave.
A
week has passed since my encounter and people ask whether I blame Arrie
for putting me in that predicament, and my answer is still no. It was
my choice to go in and it is an experience I will never forget, despite
the stitches I needed after “playing” with Mapimpan.
In
fact, I look forward to the day I can return to see it in the wild,
although this time from the safety of a Land Rover. For that is the
lesson I will take from this: too often on safari, tourists dismiss
rangers' warnings and get out of vehicles for a closer look. “They
assume it's safe because the ranger has a gun nearby,” said Arrie. “But
they're wrong. The speed and power of the lion is quite phenomenal –
they wouldn't stand a chance.”
As Frank Bruno, the
British boxer, would say when he left the ring to be interviewed after
yet another bruising defeat: I know what you mean Arrie.