The best looks from New York Fashion Week Spring 2013 so far
New York Fashion Week is never one to betray its reputation, and so far, like in all iterations of NYFW, the runway has been a mixture of extremely commercial with the occasional injection of It Girl edge. Now that we’ve hit the half way mark, let’s see who’s doing what.
Trends that have persisted from last year include pyjama dressing and whites, with last spring's pastels have concentrated into pops of crayon bright. Watermelon, azure and Pantone 369 C (a very green green) have proven particularly popular, splashed against largely white backgrounds.
At Jason Wu the look was waspishly tailored. Skirts were cut so tight the models wiggled, and angular piping further emphasised nipped little waists. By night, Wu's muse freed her lower half into skirts of billowing gossamer drama. It was lovely, and though those punshingly fitted dresses will likely sell like hotcakes, they lacked the freshness of vision that sometimes sparkles at a Wu show.
In a sport-mad year, it's no surprise sports luxe is yet to die. The trend's most interesting iteration was Lacoste where eye popping prints were in some ways reminiscent of a blown-out view of the brand's signature polo weave. Sheer sportscoats and tennis dresses adapted into high fashion statements also impressed.
You will pry the laser cut leather from Alexander Wang's cold, dead hands. This season, he made sure his key look would get noticed by sticking it on Liberty Ross (who gossip junkies will know as the spurned wife of Kristen Stewart paramour Rupert Sanders). The style itself was a bulky white hoody, worn with a laser cut pencil skirt whose undulating holes were spanned by fine thread. It was clean, in the way you feel after a five day bender and a ten minute shower, 100 years in the future.
Altuzarra called up another trend we saw trickling through from Paris last year: scarves. Extravagantly printed and tasselled, his tops and skirts were wraps of them, while fringing graced many of his other efforts.
Adopting an East-meets-Westetic based on hapi-coats, Hanbock and optimistic post war fabrics Creatures of the Wind’s twee collection garnered early positive reviews. Their most boyish pieces, in bright colours, were particularly strong, though the collection was far from revolutionary.
Diane Von Furstenberg saved her best look for last, emerging in a splotched shift that fell just past the knee. The rest of her collection, in bright on bright on bright, made use of the designer’s signature ease with jersey and draped it for good measure.
Thakoon employed prints fit for a dozen fine-china tea sets, from antiquated birds and flowers to bolder, more modernist styles. His woman got about in layered dresses – some A-line, some that paid grace to the waist – fit for a slightly eccentric but ever-so-glam young aunt.
For Peter Som, whose work is made to sell not shock, pretty printed spring coats were key.
Meanwhile Prabal Gurung who does tend to push things forward with his red carpet favoured dresses and femme but fly daywear, produced a range that felt oddly violent. Gouts of blood red flowed across drop-waisted dolly dresses, their ample hemlines puffed by petticoats. For the day time, Gurung continued to employ his popular little shorts. It was a difficult collection, but there was much to love within it.
Rag and Bone continue to kill it with the cool kid crowd. One pair of stuntman blue pants with black panelling that while it was more trendy than utility, certainly seemed to serve a purpose, and clogged my instagram feed for hours. With a glance to tailoring on one side, and blue collar uniforms on the other, the brand powered ahead with considerable attitude.
Having well and truly won home-turf and West Coast hearts Victoria Beckham set her sites on New York. Her clear lined collection, largely tennis-girl-meets-swinging-sixties-meets-White-Stripes-video-clip, veered occasionally and oddly into underwear, and featured the best hats of the season so far.
Finally, amidst the usual preppy dresses Tommy Hilfiger sent out suits that prove pyjamas have hit the very mainstream.
Biggest trend: Seperates. Down with dresses! Skirts, pants, shirts and blouses were everywhere. Which makes sense, because you need to buy more of them to make an outfit.
Most important accessory: The Belt. From skinny to thick, they were ubiquitous, worn at the waist or high on the hips.