Selvedge denim is the top tier of the denim family. Derived from the two words
self and
edge it's nature comes from how the fabric itself is produced. Made on shorter width looms the thread is continuous from left to right hence making the edge self-edged.
The edge identifies the superior quality of the denim, it announces that it is a heavier and more durable fabric, was made using more thread and that the thread has been dip-dyed in indigo anywhere between 10 - 40 times. On the selvedge there is sometimes a woven stitch (usually red) which further defines the quality and make of the fabric. Back in the day Levi's used a red selvedge, Lee used green and Wrangler used yellow.
In the early 90s Hidehiko Yamane paved way for a new generation/appreciation of selvedge denim, himself a avid collector of vintage denim he started a label called EVISU (EVIS plus EBISU) mimicking vintage Levi's, Lee and Wrangler cuts. The label's detail obsession appealed to other Japanese denim fanatics and eventually became a worldwide hit. It also began the selvedge denim rejuvenation that is still flourishing today.
Now that the little history lesson is over, let's help you get into and maintain your pair of selvedge denim. There are literally fuckloads of denim brands that are of super quality that you can choose from, so specific even that you can even choose between companies that used synthetic stitching threads and natural. When choosing raw selvedge denim make sure it fits TIGHT, it will stretch out - especially if you don't plan on washing (most denimheads postpone this for as long as possible). This way after the few months of wearing the denim in it won't stretch out too much.
If you are getting them hemmed make sure there is PLENTY of extra length for shrinkage, even if the denim is sanforised (non-shrink denim) or pre-washed, chances are it will still shrink in length once washed. A good guide is AT LEAST 4 inches of extra hem. Personally I run with about 5 - 6 inches giving the denim a good stack above the foot. After the second or third wash I hem them to just above 2 inches to the actual length of my leg.
Denim comes in a whole bunch of different weights or ounces, for selvedge denim it ranges from about 10oz all the way to 21oz. The standard weight is about 14oz with most vintage denim weighing in at 15oz.
Let's be honest here, 21oz denim is ridiculous, I know because after trying a pair on and moving like the tin man from Wizard of Oz. Shit is just too bananas for bananas. Anywhere between 13oz - 19oz is good for getting good wear marks as well as wearability and durability.
Wearing-in your denim in is one of the beauties of selvedge denim. There's nothing worse than wearing a pair of pre-washed denim and having fake wear marks on your jeans based on someone thats 6ft taller than you. Kneewear marks where your shins are is WACK, like you borrowed them from Kareem Abdul Jabbar. Busting in a pair of raw selvedge denim makes the denim fit to you, wear marks and all, they are found in the crotch (whiskers), on and behind the knee (honeycombs) and the stack above your feet. Good fade wear marks can be seen after about 4 - 9 months.
Washing denim actually is good for the fabric. It returns the tightness to the weave of the fabric hence making the jean stronger. I usually wash them on their own on a gentle cycle. I use about 2 tablespoons of laundry detergent (although now I use denim specific detergent) and 3 tablespoons of diluted salt. Yes that's right, salt. Salt has a wondefrul property of keeping the colour within the fabric, making the indigo stay indigo and the faded bits faded. NEVER let the washing machine spin your jeans as this can cause unwanted lines through your denim. I always pull my jeans out dripping wet and then hang dry in the sun. Another NEVER is put your jeans in the dryer. In fact NEVER put any natural fabrics in your dryer.
6 months after buying your selvedge jeans, you should have a pair that has wear marks customised to your shape that has moulded to your body. Dope. This year I'm busting out another pair of Levi's Vintage Collection 1967 505's that I tailored a little, other denim brands that I recommend are:
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Levis 1947 501xx : probably the jean of jeans, the base, the foundation. Replicated by A LOT of the japanese denim brands
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For the Homies: the new line is a friends and family jean, made in japan, slim fit super dope, not available retail so hit up the homies for deets
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Imperial: an aussie brand doing amazing things, all seams are felled (stitched within itself) and details reveal little bits of Australiana
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Samurai: abit played by hypebeast kids, but still make fucking DOPE jeans, even their BLACKS fade very well
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Evisu Vintage: I stopped buying evisu a good few years ago but anything pre - 2000 stays true to yamane's original ideals
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Iron Heart: just good fucking jeans really made super tough
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Skull: they use natural cottons in the stitch threads which means eventually it breaks making a wonderful repair job / customisation