Rachael Ruddick on the great leap abroad - Interview

Australia is not known for its outstanding local accessories labels. While our clothing industry, though small, has several designers who are consistently successful on an international scale, and even more who hold great promise, when it comes to shoes and bags, there are few options, and even less good ones. That is what makes Rachael Ruddick such an outstanding success. She has impressed buyers globally, repeatedly sold out at stores like Selfridges, and built a truly credible contemporary handbag label with very little precedent. This speedy ascent has seen the designer relocate her business to the UK, a process that served as inspiration for her AW12 collection, which we preview here. 

How are you settling in the UK?

Our move to the UK has been seamless. The UK is very similar to Australia culturally and the brand has been embraced by new UK and European customers, Aussie expats and retail partners who have all loved the brand story. Being based in London has also meant we have been able to work with a number of UK and US based celebrities including Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Moss and Alexa Chung.

You’re already a success story in your new home. What is it  about the lifestyle that works so well with the Rachael Ruddick brand?

Our Australian story is unique and is what sets us apart. Interestingly, media and retailers have also embraced my background of being Tasmanian and my LVMH work history. Provenance and the heritage of our products is such a focus for our brand. We have aimed to embrace the Australian way of life at a fashion angle; across our brand story, imagery and product range, through product styling, functionality and colour. Australia is best known for its natural resources, so whether it's a pendant referencing a crystal cave, iron ore beads in our melt rings or a cold cast Croc cuff, there is a small piece of Australia, or an Australian reference in every Rachael Ruddick product.

What do you think women are looking for in a handbag? How do you give that to them?

Women aren't seeking out the next 'it' bag with banner logos. Customers now have a desire to be informed, understand the inspiration of their product selection, and to have a sense of individuality, timelessness and purchase products they can adapt to their own signature style and lifestyle. This is what we aim to achieve with our product and message.

Our customer is a global traveller and seeks elegance and modernity from what she wears in her career, to her travelling wardrobe from day to night [and] every product in our handbag collection has been styled with a purpose in mind - extendable or removable straps, the option to convert a day bag into an evening clutch or use a clutch as  an ipad sleeve, a clutch, or day bag - without screaming practicality.

Your latest collection was about the idea of moving. Can you share any packing and travelling lessons you've learned along the way?
- Dedicate a carton to framed photos, they instantly make a new house a home.
- Take time to send a monthly update to family and friends - it doesn't matter if it is a general email, people still love hearing from you and receiving your news.
- Send postcards!
- Register on Viber and Skype.
- Take a few token gifts from home with you, as you will need thank you gifts as soon as you arrive.



 Essential handbags for a trip abroad?

The Rachael Ruddick Traveller in Onyx - it's a perfect work, plane and travel bag.
Prism clutch in onyx - it's compact and our ultimate tough/luxe clutch; it works well with a delicate evening gown, or to update day time denim.
Shopper in Saffron -  chic shopping,  for sightseeing or a day at the beach. It is laser cut and wraps around and lays flat in a case so is the ultimate light weight travel bag.
All serve a different purpose, and are the ultimate punctuations to create a chic look wherever you may be travelling.

Your product is all hand made at present, how crucial is that for the identity of the brand?

Quality, styling and execution are essential to the long term success for any brand or product.  Coupled with this, we are inspired to deliver products that are unique in every sense and have an edge. The whole process is essentially hand made and each bag has a personal journey and story, which is essential to identity of the brand - starting with my design, material or leather selection, hardware execution and selecting the craftsmen involved  - with the final result being the Rachael Ruddick Bag.

We are commercial in our range planning, production and vision, however bespoke products are becoming more and more important for luxury brands and their customers. It reflects my earlier comment about the consumer desire to create a signature look, feel educated in their experience and to personally enjoy their purchase.

As our business grows, we personally select our partners carefully and are fortunate to work with farmers and craftsmen who understand our vision.

We work with premium tanneries and sewing rooms in the development of our leather collection; two  high volume partners who both make for three leading luxury French houses, and another smaller operation – all are family run, which is important for us.

There aren't many huge luxury accessory success stories coming out of Australia, why do you think that is?

The fashion industry in Australia has never looked better.  It is an industry that is changing every month between the introduction of high street UK brands in Australia to the flood of internet savvy brands and the e-tail revolution. It is an exciting time. I also believe Australian media are embracing our local fashion culture more than ever before and it's good to see the mix of high street and high fashion. I noticed this more since arriving back to Sydney just prior to Christmas.

Traditionally, brand heritage has been key in telling a luxury story and the powerhouses of LVMH and Pinault Group have created the allure and driven the new foundations of numerous luxury maisons. In the current environment buyers are also very conservative in their buy and will look at well backed strong local designers and luxury brands.

Ultimately success will come through a brand's desire to be trading overseas and to have the undying ambition to drive this. Clearly it helps if a brand has a local base, representation or resources on the ground in Europe, the UK and USA and if not, growth and awareness may be restricted. There are risks commercially if there isnt a base, many late nights and early mornings and the possibility a lot of stock hanging around without the on-ground focus of a head office or designer.

What inspired you to begin your label?

Whilst managing the Dior fashion brand I could see a gap in the market to work with Australian leather and design references and to position an accessories brand at an international designer position.

I recall when I first attended the Christian Dior buy in 1999 and Sidney Toledano asked me to stand up in the Avenue Montaigne offices and meet the entire Dior team - country heads, buyers, the design teams and Galliano. He then said 'this is Rachael from Down Under.' The team was abuzz  to find out more about the Australian market, culture and business. I was surprised by the intrigue and allure surrounding Australia within a dominating fashion group. Australian Salt Water Crocodile products were then also becoming increasingly coveted in the luxury world. I swiftly understood commercial success in luxury brands came through accessory sales.

Was the move to the UK always on the cards?

I had lived in France when I was younger however we had a desire to base our family overseas and the timing was perfect in early 2011 to plan our move.

Can you tell us a bit about your forthcoming trip to the US?

We are currently holding sales appointments in London. we will be hosting a showroom in New York for 7 days in early February. we will host buyers, some key bloggers and media in NY with the aim of launching the brand in July/ August.

In March we will return to Sydney, to present our new collection.  It is a good feeling when department stores approach us for appointments, rather than the other way around !

What else should we know about the current collection?

Within the jewellery collection we have introduced rose gold to reflect the Les Tresor vintage theme.

Is there an over-arching theme we should feel season-to-season with Rachel Ruddick?

Rachael Ruddick from season-to-season will always be for a luxury lifestyle and for a modern and sophisticated customer from work to evening , she is well travelled whether by train or plane.

Our Forever collection of permanent accessories is available for reorder and immediate delivery throughout the year. This is an important carriy-over aspect to our range and includes travellers, laptop sleeves and our best selling shapes and colours.

We always use a semi analine Calfskin in our core range. It is durable and super soft and wears very well.

What else should we know?

With the growth of our wholesale business overseas we are, in tandem, rejuvenating our online profile and experience. We look forward to revealing our plans for this in a few weeks. Our next collection, currently being sampled was inspired by my most recent trip to Brazil and the vibrance of the culture throughout Rio and Sao Paulo.

We will also be collaborating with an international artist later this year, in the creation of a capsule collection.