Text & interview: Bryan Boil
Ant!podium designer Geoffrey Finch bravely called his AW12 collection VERMIN. As I waited for the show to start on Saturday, I kiiinda hoped he was poking fun at the grotesquely dressed fashion sycophants you can’t walk two feet without tripping over at fashion week (Somerset House is like the fricking Monster Ball during LFW). I was almost right — Finch explained that he was inspired by the “freaks” he sees everyday on his way to work in London. LOL! In love with the concept and its clever execution (a patchwork-y fur dress that looked like dozens of rodent skins sewn together was particularly amazing), I quizzed the designer the day after the show.
BRYAN BOIL: Tell us a little about the concept for the collection?
GF: Well I suppose it's a snapshot of our neighbourhood. I've recently become 'indefinite' in the UK and maybe I was reflecting on this. I've lived in East London for the last 8 years and its so different to where I grew up in country Queensland and it ain't 'pretty' but it's taught me a lot.
BB: Who or what inspired you?
GF: The diversity that is East London really — it's such a melting pot with an amazing history. There's nowhere quite like it anywhere in the world.
BB: What's your favourite piece from the collection, and why?
GF: The gorilla gloves! So ridic! And made by a lovely lady in Lincolnshire in between making gloves for Shrek the Musical.
BB: I loved the London print! Who did it? Was it a starting point for the collection?
GF: The EastEnders print seems to be going crazy! My lovely friend Chloe Constantinidi did it with me. What could wryly sum up an East London-inspired collection better than the cultural institution that is East Enders!
BB: Who styled your show? Tell us a secret about them?
GF: My dear friend Vanessa Coyle. She loves a Vegemite and cheese corn thin. Who doesn't?
BB: Can you share a story from backstage, where something went unexpectedly very wrong or very right?
GF: It was so bloody dark. It was a massive surprise that nothing did go wrong. I guess that's a testimony to my incredible team.
BB: Tell us about the photographer whose images appeared on your invitation. What attracted you to his work?
GF: Love a bit of Chris Dorley-Brown! He started photographing the tower blocks of East London when they starting blowing them up about 30 years ago. His 'Spot the Difference' series provides an amazing perspective of how much and how little the East End has changed over the last few decades.
BB: The collection was called 'VERMIN'. Who are amongst your favourite vermin in pop-culture?
GF: My favourite vermin are the freaks I walk past every morning on my way to work. They really are quite breathtaking and inspiring.
BB: Do you have a favourite 'new face' that appeared in the show?
GF: Love, love, love Ksenia ( Look 1) - so alien and a proper clothes horse.. Also die for Anna Pilcher (Look 2)...total gamine chic.
BB: Dewd, trying to get into the Ant!podium show with a ticket was kind of like trying to get into a concert without a ticket. What's the secret to being so popular?
GF: I'm blushing! Erm...I'm not actually sure. I have total dysmorphia about such things and thought no one would show up. It was super flattering though and for the first time I was properly proud of the collection - normally I hate it as soon as it's done and don't start liking it again until arrives in stores several months later.
BB: What exciting things are happening for Ant!podium right now?
GF: The USA is really taking off. We've just delivered to Barneys for the first and our sell through has been cwazy. We've also started with a sales agent in NY for AW12 who are opening loads of new, poshed-out accounts. Anti-P is becoming a big gurl - I can only pray that she'll be a well-behaved young lady.