Gold, silver and precious stones are no lure for Derrick R. Cruz. The New York-based jewllery designer behind Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons would rather work with wooly mammoth bone, original casts from human bones, honey comb and pieces of discarded furniture.
And then there’s the horsehair, which he plaits into bracelets and adds to necklaces as small tails, just another way to manifest his obsession with beauty found in darkness.
“I want people to become fetishists; to take a moment and consider what makes an object special, down to its imperfections and packaging… maybe even allow a piece to incite meaning, like an amulet or old myth might,” Cruz says.
He’s not the only one fascinated by historically rich craft traditions and occult motifs, particularly those concerned with our equine friends. From Arion to Centaur, Pegasus and the Trojan, horses have always played a part in human mythology – and now horses are galloping their way into fashion.
Ann Demeulemeester has led the charge with kick arse pony hair combat boots, a tough take on the pony hair footwear theme that has been picked up by everyone from BCBG to Topshop and YMC; Carolina Amato has created luxe elbow-length pony hair gloves; and Aussie footwear favourite Tristan Blair has given his pony hair footwear a leopard print kick.
Still on the footwear tip and Acne’s wedge bootie Atacoma was half-hoof, half-ice skating boot and all over what seemed like every blog last year; Proenza Schouler’s fall 2010 fillies wore heels that were decidedly hoof-like; the late Alexander McQueen’s extreme shoes were thoroughbred genius; and af vandervorst took the idea literally with their autumn winter 2009 collection of hoof boots.
Those looking for a slightly less prescriptive take on the idea might like to try Palas’ jewellery, which features horse shoes and horse figurines. After all, every kid wants daddy to buy them a pony.