It’s an understatement to say that this RAFW has felt flat. Rumours about the treatment of founder Simon Lock and an over-supply of inferior “fashion” have fueled a lacklustre feeling, certainly amongst the abundant media.
Pearls of design brilliance like the Arnsdorf collection Opticks have lifted the week out of its malaise. Jewel tones, erect neoprene panels, a specially-developed crystal print, flattering cuts and expert finishes make this one of the standout collections of the week.
Technical achievements were present in the faceted lavender dress with neoprene angles, the feature sleeves on an amber dress, the alert print tulip skirt, and popped boned collars.
Less successful details were chunky dark buttons, flacid ribs on the first dress a wilting collar on a beige blouse - all details that can be finessed in production.
Like Dion Lee’s Thursday morning show, Jade Sarita Arnotts’s collection shows that she knows her brand and is dedicated to developing within her own niche. She was previously known as the girl who makes the lady-like jeans and drapy silk shirts and dresses. Now she will surely be known as a designer capable of creating exciting and forward-thinking collections.
Estelle Deve is the young Melbourne jewellery designer that Arnott chose to work with for the show. She developed a tailored range of quartz and amethist rings, necklaces and earrings for the show.
This year she will move to New York to gain inspiration for her next collection. Hopefully she will continue working with Deve and develop a shoe line to complement her designs.