Paris was burning. Now it's bulging with exciting menswear for next spring.

Beneath the heavy styling, there are plenty of creative adaptations of practical menswear from Bernhard Willhelm, John Galliano, Miharayasuhiro and Maison Martin Margiela.

Galliano disguised chinos, leather jackets, shirting, printed T-shirts and cargo shorts with a "Napoleon explores Arabia" theme complete with mosquito nets. The models were all made up to look very much like Galliano himself, with shirts strapped around slim waists, sixpacks were highlighted with bronzer.

Willhelm's is always a range we look forward to seeing, and maybe even buying at Someday. The tropical psychcore art-rave theme of the show disguises some very wearable shorts, a beautiful big draped blue jacket and some light zip-up jackets.

Margiela and Miharayasuhiro are some of the more demure, yet still interesting ranges showing. The details are less in-your-face and more sneaking up on you like a warm kitten. Margiela punched flower and butterfly motifs from a trench, and Miharayasuhiro draped strands of jersey and wrapped necks scarves gathered to make flower shapes.