Jean Paul Gaultier delivers a theatrical, caged and corseted collection at Paris haute couture week.
"I have no intention to seriously put women in cages. My models are birds of paradise. They can remove the cages and fly," Gaultier said. "It's all about construction and foundation."
Popping eyeballs with the brightest colours he could muster, the adventurous and oh-so-French design supremo worked corsetry and caging into skirts, hats, belts and, for the finale, the headpiece of the bridal gown.
The colours, voluminous corsetry and texture make this his most exciting collection since his chinoisserie-inspired haute couture collection of fall 2001. In fact, one yellow gown was strongly reminiscent of that astounding collection.
Like thick squirts of acrylic paint, JPG's gowns were long and lean and bright. A chartreuse number was bulked up with a complex, corseted over-dress in black and matching green. A slim bum-hugging red gown was bulked up with a red and black floor-length cape with a green belt highlight.
For casual couture Fridays, Gaultier delivered a range of sublime suiting and trench coats in a rainbow of browns. Heavy on the texture, croc, fur, wool leather and lame were used to full effect, with heavy waist cinching a feature. Highlight of this caramelly section was an astounding macrame-esque cream wool birdcage dress
Beyond the big, bold strucutre and colour, little touches of delight included hot neon highlights on elbow length black leather gloves, geometric prints at knecklines and feather and fur boleros. Yes, fur again. Despicable, yet bloody gorgeous. Beyond the couture, the spun-toffee up-dos were astounding and dramatic, as was the heavy stage make-up.