Under the grand glass canopy of the Grand Palais, and around the central spectacle of an enormous organ-pipe installation, Karl Lagerfeld delivered a truly wintery evolution of Chanel classics.
Riffing on Anna Wintour’s classic bob and Louise Brooke’s smouldering eyes, Lagerfeld worked a palette of graduated greys, black and popping hot pink.
Smocking and pipe-like finger-pleating featured at waistlines, the “Wintour” shoulder was pumped up to grid-iron heights and the organ pipe theme was carried through into an astounding black ribbon/rope gown.
Of course, the Chanel signature magnolia, pearls, tweed suit and gold buttons were included. The suiting was updated in soft brown and grey with heavy finger pleating at the waist, some with astounding puff sleeves on such heavy fabric.
Magnolias were scattered throughout, in masses on the collar of a grey wool dress and as brooches and hair pieces.
The gold button featured on the black and gold overcoat is sure to become a favourite among celeb wardrobes. It’s gold zig-zag diamond detail make it infinitely wearable, a term that really means it will sell well. I can see this being thrown over T-shirts and jeans, little black dresses and over a cheeky bridal gown.
The black “umbrella stand” dress whilst an amazing feat of pleating, might not translate as readily into sales. Plus, how does one maintain those perfect folds sitting on your derrier in a limo on the way to your event? What a challenge.