Gary Bigeni does deceptive cleverness in his designs particularly well. Classic shapes and muted colour palettes allow his artful drapery, clever twists and architectural tucks and folds to be the most pleasing of understated stars. For his latest collection, Awaken Identity, that subtle cleverness was once again up to its dashing tomfoolery.
Silky, clingy dresses fell to calf length, the draping falling down the back creating something almost, but not quite, like a hood. Fluid trousers with a slightly dropped crotch were lovely, but somewhat overtaken by the beautifully draped, gathered, tucked and looped frocks and tops. Structured, cropped and cutaway blazers gave definition, while the long lines on some of the cardigans were freeing.
Colours such as crisp blue, grey, white and nudes were interspersed with the delightful pop of an orangey pink on a sleek miniskirt, or the definite orange of a blazer. While a horizontal, blockish stripe added oomph to fine knits. The quiet complexities of Gary Bigeni’s designs ensures that the odd burst of colours are a welcome addition, but that the softly, softly colours are never dull. Highlights include a white buttoned up shirt that had a long drapey back, an orangey pink frock with impeccable pinned up folds, and an icy blue one-shouldered cocktail dress. Some of the more voluminous pieces in jersey and silk were belted, adding to the polish and precision of the collection. You couldn’t wish for more sophisticated, dastardly cleverness.