As if to some how recover from the eighties saturated synthetic trends of previous seasons, the new Haute Couture season has begun with a breath of natural fresh air, in a way only Dior could create.
This season John Galliano went back to nature with a collection that paid homage to flowers in all their many forms. Presented in front of a gigantic fire-orange floral arrangement, the collection was an explosion of dramatic block colour and encompassed the varying dramatic shapes and textures of flowers.
From Marigold yellow, lilac, violet and rose red, bursts of vibrant colour played the main star of the show. The silhouette stayed true to Dior’s signature olden day glamour. This season revisited Dior’s ‘New Look’ of the fifties with a ribbon fastened around the waist, the kind you would often see wrapped around a bouquet of blooms.
The inspiration for Galliano seemed endless as each model resembled a different flower from the Disney version of Alice in Wonderland. From the sculptural tulip shape that encased the body, to the bunched peony-like layers, the look was further emphasised by faces wrapped in what looked a lot like cellophane, but at a closer glance turned out to be another clever creation by British milliner Stephen Jones.
Those signature Dior arched eyebrows were toned down this season, while the black lipstick gave the flower girls a thorny edge. If this collection is to set the tone for future springs, now is the time to brush up on your colour matching and your waistline.