The most anticipated menswear shows of AW13
Christmas is over, a new year has started and diets have begun, which can only mean that the men’s shows are upon us. And what an exciting season it is for menswear, which kicks off with LCM in London (i.e. London Collections: Men) and Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence this week, before Milan and Paris do their thing next weekend and the week after. Here, the most anticipated shows of the men’s autumn/winter 2013 season.
Since Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took over as Creative Directors of Kenzo two seasons ago, the Japarisian house has experienced a rebirth comparable only to the comeback album of a really over-the-top superstar. Like Mariah Carey. In London, Paris and New York, it was literally impossible to avoid sitting next to a Kenzo jumper on the bus this season and with a follow-up spring/summer 2013 collection that’s even better than their autumn/winter 2012 effort, Leon and Lim face a challenge when they guest star at Pitti this week with their autumn/winter 2013 menswear collection. Will they continue their foray into the land of logos, Kenzo-tastic prints and jungle-y things, or are we in for an epic change?
After a turbulent season of open letters from the press and Twitter fights with Cathy Horyn, Hedi Slimane will put on his first menswear catwalk show as Creative Director for Saint Laurent, his ready-to-wear line for Yves Saint Laurent. Slimane, who pretty much changed the face of modern menswear, actually made his debut at Saint Laurent with menswear last season, but the presentation was only open to buyers. Now it’s up on YSL.com, and if his sophomore collection for the house is anything like it, the diehard fans Slimane earned during his epic stint at Dior Homme are in for a treat. But who knows, after his dramatic womenswear season he might be in the mood for something new.
It was three seasons ago that the genius that is Jonathan Saunders first launched his men’s line. It was a quiet affair in Milan, and moved to London last year with the introduction of LCM, but kept being a quiet affair – at least in terms of show production. Jonathan’s menswear, however, is anything but quiet. With his dreamy prints, slick knitwear and superior use of colour, the Scottish designer’s menswear has become as coveted as his womenswear. Not least when it comes to print suits, of which he’s pretty much king. This season, Jonathan is doing another toned-down presentation, which is fine… because as we all know, some of the best things in life come in small packages.
Last season and the season before, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli took their menswear on the road – to Pitti in Florence, more specifically, where they quickly became the talk of the town. Pioneering a current trend for adding haute couture elements to the men’s wardrobe, the Valentino designers are taking their young menswear line to new heights. This season Paris will see its first Valentino men’s show under their creative direction. The new guy in town is always the most exciting, especially if it’s an old guy who’s been revamped (take for instance Kenzo the past two seasons) and there is no doubt that Valentino will be on everyone’s lips during the Paris shows.
(Images via Imaxtree)