Since its creation jewellery has been steeped in superstition, sentimentality and sensuality. Whether it was the bone talismans of early man or the gold collars of Egypt circa 3000 BC, accessories have always been more than fashion objects.

More recently the trend towards found objects give the owner a sense that the piece has some mysterious history – a story hidden within the molecules. “Mecurialist seeks beauty in the worn and weathered, the story of an object,” explains Mecurialist designer Emma Luke, one of the nine accessory designers showing at this year's Penthouse Mouse.

Similarly Natalia MIlosz-Piekarska of label Piekarska is inspired by what she calls, “spiritual adornment.”

“Across cultures and history, people have adorned themselves for a many number of reasons, but the most intriguing for me is the level of trust, belief and power that people obtain and imbue into certain ‘magical’ pieces.”

It’s not all hocus pocus of the old-world; there are many examples of modern day mysticism in jewellery. Everyone remembers the sentimental exchange of “best friends” charms and of course, little is more symbolic than the enduring tradition to exchange rings.

While materials may evolve the feeling of history remains synonymous with jewellery, “I love the ability of resin and perspex to appear to be something that it is not,” says Karla Way designer behind her self named label. “The materials lend themselves to mystery, looking like bone, seeds, charred wood, rock. Perfect for presenting a fragment of a story.”

Adorning oneself isn’t strictly confined to jewellery. Fans, gloves, brooches, scarves, hats and bags have been used over centuries to not only accentuate an outfit, but also to express moods and in some cases even ward off bad luck.

Of course not every item of jewellery comes with this sense of antiquity – with technology comes cheap mass production. So what sets apart the treasured from the trashy? Quality craftsmanship and design.

“My products are unisex handwoven and felted scarves using mainly lambswool,” explains Kyoko Osato of her label Kyoko. “The whole process of making these textiles is done in Melbourne: designing, weaving on a floor loom and felting by hand with a pair of yellow gloves making sure the feel of each piece is right and hoping it will be used and looked after for many years, perhaps passed on to children and grandchildren.”

Elements of handcrafting are almost always present in the creative process of quality jewellery. MIlosz-Piekarska describes her pieces as “studio based contemporary jewellery.” This, she says, “refers to works that are created by the maker in an independent studio environment, often with pieces being one off or limited series, and often developed through research and conceptual background.”

That doesn’t mean that all the accessories worth coveting are expensive. A new breed of passionate designers are emerging, and they are committed to offering the quality and craftsmanship without the credit card debt. “The Does Not Equal ethos is about creating exclusive, well designed pieces that challenge the other higher priced labels in the market,” says designer Charisse Black. “Does Not Equal is kept exclusive by small production numbers, each item being designed and produced within Australia."

Check out the new guard of Australian jewellery and accessory design at this year’s Penthouse Mouse, in the former Naval and Millitary Club. Enter via Coates Lane (off Little Collins St. Melbourne, 3000). Open from 11 - 9pm daily 6th - 19th March 2010.