Don’t laugh about those people in the ‘70s putting goldfish in the heels of their shoes. First of all, they were Nemo killers. Second of all, if Donatella Versace could make a cigarette lighter swim in a bath of vodka in the base of a pair of shoes without getting blown to plasticky smithereens, she probably would. Such a feat would be practical and beautiful, no?
Instead of the vodka and lighter shoe, she recently stuck a perfectly manicured finger up at her haters (like she cares) by delivering a collection of beautiful shoes to accompany
Versace’s spring 2010 RTW collection.
With baroque prints, sole cut outs, metallic accents, pastel shades and sky high platforms, the shoes would have made the Sun King himself happy. Cue a thousand bloggers’ orgasmic sighs.
Donatella’s stab at the stiletto came in the wake of Pierre Hardy for Balenciaga’s back to the future designs, Nicholas Kirkwood’s much-copied platform sole, Camilla Skovgaard’s traction heels and Acrobats of God’s elastic experiments. Not to mention the crazy stuff coming from Jil Sander, Finsk, Raphael Young, Rob Goodwin, Hampus
Bernhoff and even Topshop Unique.
New minimalism or no, fashion is clearly still in the throes of its love affair with extreme footwear – and while materials such as leather, wood, fabric, plastic and synthetics still drive much of footwear design, a few intrepid designers are turning to materials such as carbon fibre, new plastics and stainless steel.
United Nude
Ultra light mules with impossibly thin heels; cut out heels that support the feet at unbelievable angles; and shoes that make the wearer look like they are walking on air. All possible thanks to United Nude’s work with carbon fibre, a light and strong material that’s more often seen in aerospace, military and motorsports applications than on the catwalk.
United Nude creative director Rem D Koolhaas, who calls his brand “the first architectural footwear brand,” says carbon fibre allows him to create shoes that combine extreme shapes with comfort.
“The most exciting thing about carbon fiber is that it allows you to do constructions that, in terms of strength, are only possible with metals,” he says. “Where metal would be too heavy, carbon fibre is much lighter. Besides that, carbon-fiber looks very beautiful because it’s a woven textile – and you can see the structure of it like a fabric which is then covered by epoxy or polyester which is then eventually polished to a gloss finish.”
Anastasia Radevich
From intricately sculpted cut-out designs to baroque-meets-Nautilus curlicues, Anastasia Radevich knows the value of a strong heel. She tops her heel designs with plastic and bronze-infused stainless steel with fantastical leather uppers in rich suede, gorgeous fur and high shine leather.
The Canadian footwear designer of Belarusian origin was a work experience kid with Alexander McQueen and Nicholas Kirkwood before launching her own collection that has been picked up by UK boutique Wolf & Badger.
“I’m inspired by video games, alternative reality, the fusion of organic natural and artificial substances. I just watched the Hubble 3D movie - it makes you wonder and imagine things… all those thoughts and emotions I put into shoes.”
Heavy Machine
Tonka trucks aren’t just for kids – shoe designers Michelle Wu and Yoyo Pan are inspired by such heavy machinery. Their label Heavy Machine aims to create looks that are strong and yet feminine.
Trained in Melbourne, New York and Florence, the pair began the label last year and now have stockists in Taiwan and online for their creations crafted from plastic and leather.
“Our design philosophy combines strong structural foundations with experimental, avant-garde designs. We're not traditionally feminine, but we’re not feminists either. The best description may just be aptly put ‘naughty, playful but strong willed’.
“We wanted to make a statement to express our design and point of view, and we felt that shoes were the perfect weapons to make an innovative statement. We are inspired by industrial masculine structures and design lines, and matching unconventional colours. It's an idea composed of old classic craftsmanship from a silly, naive, romantic frame of mind.”