Manning Cartell have carved out a fine niche for themselves translating trend dressing into something a little less ephemeral, and with Autumn/Winter's Varga Girl collection, they extend this ethos even further with an expansive range which smacks of 'now' when worn in combination, but can be sifted into separates with longer lasting appeal.
The deco inspirations for the winter collection come through in the clean, faux-leather lines of opened roll lapel tuxedo jackets, with thick jetted pockets, and in sensuous long-lined silk jumpsuits and scoop fronted dresses. This twenties bent is not as overt as the flapper dresses we've seen emerging elsewhere, instead it captures something less literal - the Jazz Age's tendencies towards gender ambiguities. Tailoring is strong, with trousers, jackets and oversized, man-style coats in a vivid shades all offering a firm if elegant perspective, softened by silken shirting and mini peter pan collars.
Digital prints abstracted from the opulent embellishments of Leon Bakst's work for the Russian ballet and a monochromatic floral play out against a feast-rich palette of berry, bright mustard, orangina and chocolate, with neutralising accents of bone, black, olive and stone.
Elsewhere, leather pants and front seamed denims combine with aerated, asymmetric knits to produce off duty looks that feel well-at-heel-does-down-and-out. Lacework in bright blue and creamy shades offers a work-to-weekend solution, while high slit, ankle skimming skirts come close to overt provocation. A cummerbund waisted pencil skirt with a sheer, spotted panel is a particular stand out, while paperbag-and-peg-leg pants look dashingly tom boyish in brights.
When taken in its entirety, the collection's main cohesion is not so much theme as client. You get the distinct impression of a woman who is directionally aware, but far from a catwalk slave. A careerist who cares for her image, and (as the form fitting scuba dresses will testify) has a healthy after hours life. It may not be a grand philosophical statement, but there's plenty here to covet.
Manning Cartell's AW12 collection will be available online and in store from Febuary.