Since Japan Fashion Week wrapped up last Friday, there have been mixed reviews as to how the week and Japan’s fashion industry stands up on the world stage. Thankfully, Japan's answer to haute couture, Nozomi Ishiguro, closed the week with a bright bang.
While the industry’s knack for vibrancy (even in winter) is not being disputed, many of the shows, apart from a few exceptions, sadly seemed to cling to a western ideal of fashion.
Expectations of eclectic Japanese style - incredible prints, gorgeous Asian models and a unique point of view - quickly diminished. The week was saturated with blond Russian models and European trendsl; capes, tailored leather, fur, sculptured shoulders.
While this isn’t such a bad thing, the week was in dire need of an injection of energy, colour and a little bit of craziness. That carzy was Nozomi Ishiguro.
Held in an abandoned warehouse in the seemly dodgy end of Tokyo, Ishiguro presented a collection of vast contrasts, combing western trends and tradition Japanese influences with elements of Japan’s famous Harajuku street style.
Finally, Asian and exotic-looking models hit the catwalk in the type of theatrical make-up that the house of Dior has made its signature. But unlike Dior there was no silk organza or sky-high stilettos. Looking to the street for inspiration, Ishiguro, who previously worked with Comme Des Garcons for 12 years, sent models stopping out in customised high-top sneakers.
Throwing formulaic fashion to the wind, the collection mixed cherry blossom pink with chocolate brown, metallic sheen with patchwork. It mish-mashed prints and paid homage to Japan’s love for tongue-in-cheek gimmicks with knitted skeletons.
The western trend for fur was noticeably avoided, as the collection focused heavily on knits, growing in thickness as the collection progressed. As each model emerged, the silhouettes became more sculptural and layers multiplied until the last look - an oversized white knitted coat held together by one hell of a strong safety pin. While in theory it may all sound like a hot mess, visually it was a feast for the eyes that encapsulated the energetic and diverse look that modern Japan come to adopt.