Elliot Ward-Fear is the most promising avant-garde designer in Australia, and his second capsule collection for AW11 shows that the hype he garnered after his RAFW showing is well and truly deserved.
The lookbook stars Codie Young, in her first shoot coming off the back of a Vogue Australia exclusive contract, which included one Vogue cover. Shot by the equally promising Thom Kerr, the imagery is soft yet sharp, much like the collection itself.
Titled 'The Spirit of Clothing', the collection is inspired by the idea that garments have their own lives, and through clever cutting, and strong, structural silhouettes, it shows the ghosts of garments drifting upwards and away from the shapes that bind them to the body. Of the collection, Ward-Fear states that he "aims to visually depict the spirit, or ‘a’ spirit of a garment leaving itself.”
Fabric choices reflect a classic, European sensibility, and include luxurious additions like boiled wool, duchess satin, and, to add an edgier reflection, a shiny PVC. Colourways manage to be both on theme and on trend, with icy lavendars and pinks mixing with carmel and cream tones, to create and confection effect reminiscent of a Parisian macaroon box.
But Ward-Fear's biggest strength lies in his tailoring. The collection features multi-pannelled pieces that are both strong and controlled, yet highly feminine, hugging the body and saluting the female form through well placed lines. Bespoke detailing refers back to the collection's core theme, featuring collars and cuffs that snake delicately up arms and around the neck, and unexpected additions like tight pleating and cheeky, sensuous cutaways.
An ethereal, cloud motif is also carried throughout the collection, with scalloping on white and cream colourways looking literally and metaphorically heavenly.
Finally, look out for the impossibly vertiginous, editorial only platforms. These statement shoes, that look like a white-washed rococo take on a Japanese geta, are a witty response t
o the controversy caused by the 10 inch platforms that caused models to tumble in Ward-Fear's RAFW show. Personally, I had no trouble walking in Ward-Fear's last footwear range, but I'm not at all game to try on these shoes, which look more like works of sculpture than anything one could slip a foot into.
Behind the scenes imagery by
Red Eclipse Studio.
For a look at Ward-Fear's campaign imagery for the season head to
Frockwriter.