Best of the AW13 Men's Shows
Ah, is there anything better than the men’s shows? No one pushes, no one shouts, and minimal effort is expected in the wardrobe department – at least from the guests. Having just returned from two weeks of it all – from London to Florence (where the Pitti Uomo menswear fair takes place) to Milan to Pairs, I give you my highlights from the season they call Modern Love, autumn/winter 2013.
The show: The static Meadham Kirchhoff presentation at Carlton House where models posed amongst black bin liners in a room scented with Penhaligon’s.
The collection: SIBLING. Amazing jumpers, fluffy shorts and couture-like knits. The designer trio from London just keeps getting better.
The look: Astrid Andersen, exit 7 – a shimmering, furry dark teal tracksuit, which summed up all the good parts of London menswear to perfection.
The trend: Boxy trousers, as seen at James Long, Christopher Shannon and Astrid Andersen.
The music: Die Slow by HEALTH as played at Craig Green.
The party: The 1205 presentation hosted by Harvey Nichols with a performance by Kindness.
The model: Matthew Bell, star of the McQ SS13 campaign, who walked the Alexander McQueen AW13 show amongst many others.
The guest: Ronnie Wood, who sat front row at Lee Roach.
The topic: A discussion arose already on the first day about London fashion’s back-padding of one another and the need for more critique.
The show: Kenzo headlined Pitti Uomo this season and put on a huge production and light show in the Mercado Centrale in Florence.
The collection: Kenzo’s sky-inspired collection came complete with cloud prints and fluffy sky blue jumpers.
The look: Kenzo’s final exit, a heavenly, heavily textured navy coat.
The trend: Hard to say from just a handful of shows, but the trend amongst Pitti goers is ALWAYS a beard, a tweed jacket, a formal jean and a loafer.
The music: The DJ girl who played literally every single amazing late-90s track at the Andrea Pompilio x Onitsuka Tiger presentation.
The party: Kenzo’s debauched soiree at the gilded Palazzo Gianfigliazzi Bonaparte whose balcony – and designated smoking area – overlooked the River Arno.
The model: Sven from Independent, who moonwalked at the Andrea Pompilio x Onitsuka Tiger presentation.
The guest: Florence Welsh, who made a low-key but name-appropriate Florence appearance at the Kenzo show.
The topic: The fog hovering over Tuscany, meaning everyone had to land in Pisa and take jolly (no.) bus rides to Florence.
The show: Prada’s elaborate set featuring 60s interiors, which the models walked through in all their intellectual banality, was amazing.
The collection: Neil Barrett’s 90s minimalism was both romantic and nostalgic. From the pony skin jumpers to the textured coats, everything was so extremely covetable.
The look: Fendi’s Iceland-inspired opening look, featuring the boxiest coat in Milan.
The trend: Rule Britannia. From the tartan at Moschino and Moncler Gamme Bleu to the checks at Jil Sander and Fendi, Englishness found its way into pretty much every single collection in Milan.
The music: Eisbaer by Grauzone, as mixed with Joy Division’s She’s Lost Control at Neil Barrett.
The party: Neil Barrett’s post-show house party, which show report writers sadly didn’t get to attend.
The model: Alexander Ferrario, who was everywhere from Gucci to Fendi, and walks with the kind of swagger Justin Bieber has wet dreams about.
The guest: Adrian Brody arrived Monday evening, the night before the Diesel Black Gold show he was attending, and had to walk through the Principe during model/editor happy hour. Aw.
The topic: Illness. Lots of it. For some of us, the Jil Sander was a 30-minute long battle not to sneeze and cough all over judgemental fashion people.
The show: Raf Simons is a hot ticket and although the designer didn’t choose an in any way interesting space for his show, the music – a medley representing all the eras of his label – and the atmosphere made it spectacular.
The collection: As usual, no one perfect the art of modernity, beauty, continuity, surprise elements, and wearability like Dries Van Noten. His pyjama party of a collection was as ingenious as it was incredible.
The look: Valentino, exit 11 – a couture-y check suit that sums up the whole season.
The trend: Modern dandy, as pioneered by Raf Simons.
The music: Modern Love by David Bowie, as played during the Raf Simons finale. It became the theme song of the season.
The party: Paris is all about the dinners and the heavy snow didn’t make late-night partying look more attractive.
The model: Ben Allen, who didn’t just open and close Dior Homme and walk just about every other walk-worthy show, but who is also a very polite young man.
The guest: Scott Disick. Yes, that’s right. Kanye took Lord Disick to the shows and the poor man had to endure hours of backstage air kissing.
The topic: The snow. Paris was covered in it. No one’s driver knew what to do. Slush filled up the show venues. Suede boots were murdered.(Images via Imaxtree)