ANZFW has always been an event I have actively celebrated and personally been involved with. Following the recent AW09 collections, I must admit I was a little frustrated. I left the event without the feeling that I had found something new, that one shining beacon of hope that this is a self-perpetuating industry.

Of course the usual suspects didn't disappoint, but is it really up to NOM*d and Zambesi to constantly come up with the kind of note worthy clothes and show that should really leave some other notable Antipodean designers blush?

Last year's stars Alexandra Owen and Alex-Kim Jaeha were two of the most hotly anticipated names of the week. Unfortunately neither lived up to the hype. In a blatant tribute to vintage Hussein Chalayan and Maison Martin Margiela's current obsession with elevated and accentuated shoulders, Owen presented a collection that had little to do with the easy, edgy brilliance that caught our collective tastes last season.
With his signature Gothic temperament Alex-Kim Jaeha introduced menswear for the first time this season, which was his first mistake. Rather, he should have perfected the floaty silk dresses and edgy layers that have garnered him so much attention in his first few seasons. His hand tie-dyed silks, and hand cut leather scarves were a standout, but sadly do not a strong and cohesive collection make.

Margi Robertson's NOM*d, in collaboration with iconic Kiwi stylist Karen Inderbitzen-Waller, presented one of their strongest collections to date. Each heavily layered look, once disassembled, lived up to the drama of the collective whole. In a vaguely similar plaid and flannelette meets chunky knitwear vibe, and with Hole looped on the soundtrack, the Kurt and Courtney vibe was unmistakable at Lonely Hearts. Also under the influence of Inderbitzen-Waller they presented a tight collection, and for only their second show, they should be an inspiration to fellow sophomores, Owen and Jaeha. Another icon, Liz Findlay of Zambesi, gave us the best show she has ever done. Paired back and simply staged, after seasons of focus on the menswear, the women’s line took centre stage again.

But it was two labels that didn't stage runway shows, Jimmy D and Lela Jacobs that saved the week for me. James Dobson (aka Jimmy D) has quietly and effortlessly been polishing up his take on the late 80s/early 90s aesthetic that London's avant-garde has recently picked up on. His AW09 collection is his most mature to date, and exits aesthetically somewhere between classic Yohji, 90s metal bands and vintage Alaia. Newcomer Lela Jacobs has two seasons under her belt and is similarly honing her aesthetic like the proverbial monk...away from the influences of the world and driven by her innate nature.

Ryan Lobo  from Pagesdigital