Even on the catwalks of Paris and Milan there was no escaping
the global financial crisis, where designers responded by playing
it safe in their collections.
Collette Dinnigan presented her spring/summer 2009 show in the
French capital at the weekend and, in keeping with the less
exuberant mood, there were more pants and daywear pieces than
usual.
The Summer Night collection showcased the Sydney designer's
signature bead work with a military influence that Dinnigan
described as a "Mad Max edge". Smoky crystal necklines, beaded
epaulettes and pockets were highlights.
The Sydney-based designer's bohemian spirit was not totally
overshadowed by the military edge, with floaty floral prints,
butterflies and crystal dragonflies also on show, and some sexy
crochet shorts.
It is Dinnigan's 13th year on the Paris schedule, and she
remains the only Australian-based designer on the official
schedule.
In recognition of her longevity and contribution, the designer
was appointed to Paris Fashion Week's prestigious Chambre Syndicale
committee this year, joining luminaries such as Karl Lagerfeld and
Jean Paul Gaultier.
Dinnigan said the appointment will silence those in the
Australian media who were critical of her decision to miss
presenting a collection in 2006 after the birth of her daughter,
Estella.
"I got so much bad press and I couldn't understand it because I
had worked so hard and had done so much to promote Australia. I
took a year off after the birth of my child and there was all this
negativity saying I wasn't good enough to compete," Dinnigan
said.
"I guess time tells all, doesn't it? There's no way I would be
appointed to the committee if they didn't think the product was
good enough."
Sales also speak loud and clear with Dinnigan's annual sales
revenue a reported $12 million.
Australia is still the designer's biggest market, followed by
Russia and the Middle East.
"Things have definitely slowed down in the US and UK but it's
not so bad that people aren't re-ordering but they are much more
cautious," Dinnigan said.
"The strong Australian dollar has also meant they are getting
less for their money."
Dinnigan said she could not see herself working as hard as she
had done in the past for another 13 years but that her drive was
still here for the moment.
"Fashion is not an ego-driven thing; it is passion driven. The
challenge of getting a collection made by a deadline and onto the
catwalk is what helps to make my work excellent.
"I'm lucky that what I do is what I love, and I can earn money
from it. It isn't just about signing off for me."
Kellie Hush