The most tedious aspect of being a tastemaker in the
creative industry is the consumer's need to pigeonhole in order to
identify. Thankfully for London born-and-bred fashion designer Carri
Mundane, aka Cassette Playa,
she’s shaped her craft into a multi-faceted whirlwind of colour and
futurisms and garnered recognition all over the world as more than just
a streetwear brand. She’s constantly spotted in British Vogue as well
as music bible New Musical Express, she’s worked with Billionaire Boys
Club, new rave/punk band The Klaxons and most notably, one of the most
important people in the forefront of the new music generation – M.I.A.
And now she has her own Nike Blazer... Interview By Safra Ducreay
Who was your favourite Superhero comic character growing up?
Tank Girl.
If
you had the chance to produce, direct, shoot one television episode of
your favourite comic book, which one, which series, and which actors
would star as the main characters and why?
I have a kinda love/hate relationship with the Tank Girl film, so I’d like to re-shoot it with Chloe Sevigny.
Your
line has been categorized as cartoon couture. You seem to embrace it,
but at the same time, you've incorporated eighties elements, skateboard
culture, the rainforest and shamanism into your line. Now, if you were
to mass-produce your line for a major chain store, would you see
yourself gearing it towards a concept that is more 'consumable'?
Nope.
I have no problem with doing a diffusion line, but I’d never compromise
my ideas and I don’t think I would have to. People aren’t dumb. I
really respect artists like Keith Haring or Memphis Design. Art that
can translate on a mass/pop (cultural) level. I hope that my prints and
clothes work on all levels as well.
Your
state of mind, your clothing, everything about you is about
incorporating futurism. With the rise of social-networking tools such
as Facebook, Twitter, MySpace, etc., it’s easy to see how these outlets
have become power forms of ‘futuristic’ communication for music. But do
you think that people get it when it comes to clothing?
Totally!
MySpace has revolutionised music in that you can have access to a
global audience. It negates the need for a record label or even an
industry, that’s a lot of power. It’s the same with fashion too. You
can build your own global tribe.
In your opinion, do you think the New-Rave era was a breakthrough for the European market?
I
don’t know what to say to that. The whole new-rave thing is kinda jokes
(to me). Vacant in retro. It’s just a marketing machine. I have my own
machine, and it really frustrates me that what I do is misinterpreted.
I guess it was a fun time but I’m more excited about what happens now.
The next level - the next generation. There’s a mood of
neo-spiritualism and futurism that excites me.
You
say that you want Cassette Playa to be a whole experience. Besides the
runway, fashion styling, can you tell me of the ultimate experience you
were able to create, and did it produce the effect you had hoped?
I recently worked with Nike on a video installation
in an in-store in Selfridges London. It was based on the split
Windrunner, and was inspired by MMORPG.COM and online gaming. The idea
is each Windrunner has its own avatar, so you choose, split and fuse
two avatars/Windrunners to make your own ultimate avatar/pixel warrior.
You could then download it as a limited edition video ringtone. I
designed all the characters and art directed the game and in-store. It
was amazing to see the characters 3D and animated; it was also awesome
to work on the Sonics (the soundtrack and ringtone were made
exclusively for the game by Silverlink).
In a 2006
article you said that you wanted menswear fashion to be more colourful,
positive and futuristic. Now, two years later, with the emergence of
men's fashion lines like Billionaire Boys Club, Kid Robot, BAPE and so
many more, would you agree that there is a renaissance going on in the
market?
Yes! Totally! It’s inspiring to see other brands
from the same planet. I’ve been working with Billionaire Boys Club for
three seasons now (styling editorials and this season’s Look Book).
They really lead the way and I’m excited to see the next level.
Can you tell me the difference between American streetwear versus UK streetwear?
I
don’t consider Cassette Playa a streetwear brand, it’s a luxury brand.
I think we sit somewhere new - in between high-end and street. I think
UK street style is a lot more eclectic, it comes from both the streets
and the clubs. Culturally and in music scenes etc., Britain is more
mixed/mashed-up and I think that influences things.
I
know you say that you don't consider your line to be streetwear. But
has it been challenging getting the rest of the world to see that?
Not
really. We have always showed at London and Paris Fashion Week and the
mainline doesn’t sell in streetwear stores. It sits beside Jeremy
Scott, Raf Simons, Comme de Garcons and Bernard Wilhelm! I’m excited
that we can be on these different levels, (for example we were featured
in) New Musical Express Magazine and Vogue in the same month! And
showing in Paris while working with Nike. Also, our processes are
luxury, you can’t really do the digital print and the construction that
we do at a streetwear level. And I’m personally very proud to be
British and although a lot my references are global, it influences and
conditions everything I do.
London
is notorious for having a bit of a reserved, even negative energy at
times. Do you ever feel that you'd like to be based somewhere else when
it comes to producing your line?
London is so
multicultural, it has all the inspiration I need but it’s a tough city.
It’s important to get out sometimes or it all becomes too much about
survival. London will always be my home but I love travelling. I’d
definitely move the brand out of London. I’d like to keep on moving –
maybe a Cassette Playa world tour!
A lot of things have happened for you since 2006. Does the rapid success make you feel somewhat apprehensive at times?
Yeah,
it’s been a little crazy but I’m too busy to think and I’m always
looking to the future. (I’m always) trying to keep moving forward.
You've
worked with The Klaxons and MIA - artists that have infused video-game
audio into their beats. How important is it for you when it comes to
styling artists, to paint a visual picture through their music?
I
usually work with artists who are sonically interpreting the same
references as me. We are coming from the same place so it’s easy. I
feel weird saying I’ve styled any of these artists, as it’s more of a
collaboration. When I’m designing, music is my biggest inspiration. So
it’s a flip of that. I work with a lot of grime artists because I
really believe in the scene - it inspires me. I got into it because
it’s both future and a totally UK sound and because of the energy when
you are at a grime rave - it’s like metal to me.
Would you ‘work’ with bands like Crystal Castles or I Hunt Wizards seeing that their beats incorporate the same concept?
I Love Crystal Castles, They Are F U T U R E P R I M A T I V E. So fucking raw.
Can art live without fashion?
Yes!
Can fashion live without music?
I can’t!
By Safra Ducreay
Check out the Nike x Cassette Playa Blazer
hereSneaker Freaker