Address: 619 Church St, Richmond
Former regulars of Church Street's Prince Alfred Hotel, elated at having their corner boozer back after three years behind boards, might be feeling somewhat deflated at the direction in which it has gone.
While the old PA was all about the traditional Aussie pub — TVs superglued to sport in the front bar, liberal use of dunny jubes in the men's loo, ramshackle beer garden shaded with grapevines out the back — the new one has purged the place of any quirkiness (some might even say character).
It's now a neutral palette of smooth timber floors, dark timber shelves, a marble-topped bar and pale, virtually decor-free, walls. You'd no longer expect to see an old bloke sitting down one end nursing a pony for several hours, which may or may not be a good thing depending on your point of view.
The beer garden dances to a similar tune and, with its wall-mounted water feature, fireplace (gas, fake logs), meticulously aligned market umbrellas and outdoor bar, it seems to have taken its style cues from Backyard Blitz.
The young, tanned and buff crowd (one of whom, on a recent midweek night, had a Eureka flag tied around his neck) seem to like it, preferring the nightclub vibe (and the corresponding drink prices) to a more traditional pub feel. Venture here on a Friday or Saturday night and the club-like atmosphere registers off the charts.
Though drinks are pricey, there's quality on offer, so you don't feel like they're having a complete laugh. The beer list is good, with eight on tap including Mildura Brewery Stefano's Pilsner ($6 a pot) and Trumer ($8.50), and a good selection of bottled beers that hop about the globe from New Zealand (Hawkes Bay Amber Ale, $11.50) to Belgium (Chimay Blue, $13.50).
The wine list is serviceable with about 10 by the glass but you have to ask why, on such a short list, are there three sauvignon blancs from Marlborough?
The bar food list includes a burger ($23) and fish and chips ($21), and there's a dining room with its own menu for those wanting to make a night of it.
The new Prince Alfred has struck out in an emphatically different direction. Traditionalists may not like it but they're obviously not the market the new PA is tapping.
By Michael Harden, for Epicure
Photo: Eddie Jim