Beach chic no longer translates as burnished skin, balm-slicked lips and minimal (waterproof) mascara. For Peter Philips, Chanel Beauty’s Creative Director and the man behind the haunting look seen sauntering down the shores of the Lido last week, has redefined the term.

The vacant and deathly pale faces of Cruise Collection-clad girls supported the pairing of a muted mouth with an eye that was as dark, murky and mysterious as the waters of the Lido its self. Philips’ and his team smeared halos of burgundy and deep purple over wishy-washy hues, with imperfect inky-black kohl to finish. Bodies too were devoid of colour making them a fine contrast to vampy nails and the graphic black of Lagerfeld’s high-waisted swimming costumes.

At first glance Philips’ make-up direction might seem ill at ease with the location, ironic even, especially given Mademoiselle Chanel – whose long-time favourite holiday destination was Venice; she was often seen sea-side, lounging about the cabanas – is renowned for taking the tan out of the working class and making it luxurious and fashionable, a concept still embraced today. But the fact remains Coco resided by the Lido prior to revealing her bronzed glow, at a time when wealthy ladies dare not bare anything but soft, milky skin. 

Naturally Philips’, a man with a penchant for theatrics and an uncanny ability to channel Lagerfeld’s vision, would have been all too aware of this. Hence why he orchestrated a look that was founded on such a pallid complexion.