The two of the four brains behind one of the world’s most forwarding thinking online publications are in Australia to share their wisdom in a series of talks presented by Portable.tv.
Refinery29 is a daily fashion blog that attracts close to a million visitors per month. The website covers a range of subjects from fashion weeks, trends, beauty, online boutiques and global shopping guides, transforming the way in which fashion is delivered, reported on and consumed online.
Married duo Piera Gelardi (founding editor along with Christene Barberich) and Philippe von Borries (co-founder along with Justin Stefano) began Refinery29 in 2005. While 5 years ago may not seem that long ago, at the time the world, particularly online was a completely different place (before the days of face book, twitter and people finding fame on youtube). “At the time, consumers were craving personal expression and turning away from mass culture,” said Philippe, during the presentation in Brisbane last Friday.
Based in New York, the website’s central location has played a big key in their success. According to Philippe, at the time the website began, designers such as Alexander Wang and Opening Ceremony were just starting out. Refinery29 soon positioned itself in a leadership roll in uncovering new talent and designers by collaborating with young New York labels, giving them a platform to a global consumer.
“A big part of refinery29’s success is that we need to be able to re-invent ourselves and take risks,” said Philippe, who discussed the recent relaunch of the site to which they received dozens of hate mail.
The main focus of the session was an intriguing talk about the changes within the fashion landscape, in particular the change towards fashion becoming a dialogue between consumers, designers, new media, retailers and advertisers; a subject of interest that not only applies to those interested in fashion, but also those hoping to capture the power of the internet for their business or personal interests.
I spoke to Philippe afterwards to find out a bit more:
Where did the name come from?
We started with this idea of curating or refining the information, hence refinery. We also had the really cute idea at the beginning to limit everything to 29, which wasn’t very visionary of us. But the name stuck, and what we like about it today really is that it raises eyebrows, it’s unique and it sets us apart.
Do you think designers honestly value the opinions of independent bloggers, or do they just see them as tools to generate positive publicity?
Well I think if they don’t take them seriously, it’s going to come back to them at some point. I think it’s very, very difficult, because at the end of the day bloggers are very powerful and they want to feel appreciated. Because if you go out there [as a blogger] and there is some brand that you write about and give love to, it is important. Otherwise the criticism that someone can put out there, that could really come back to a brand.
With technology changing the way customers are able to view and access to fashion shows, such as the recent Burberry show, how do you think this will affected the media’s input?
I think the technology used at the Burberry show has affected things hugely. On the subject of the luxury of fashion, back in the past it was restricted and limited and now there is such access to it and it’s so transparent in the media. I think there is such a huge element of new luxury and I think Burberry really get it. They got it with the ‘art of the trench,’ they got it with live streaming their show, which anyone around the world could watch. Maybe [consumers] can’t afford a specific Burberry item at this time, but maybe they can in five years and then they can be apart of what used to be the closed world of fashion that once only included fashion editors and people in the industry. So I think it was totally ground breaking.
And so how do you think that affects people like yourself and the media?
Well it affects us in a way that now we’ll sit in our office and our editors will sit around a computer to watch the show live and we’ll twitter. So all of a sudden our fifty thousand followers on twitter who are sitting at work will immediately know what’s happening at the Burberry show that is taking place in London, a world removed from where we are. So I’m a huge fan of it, I think it’s absolutely amazing.
The Refinery29 talks continue at the Museum of Sydney, Corner of Bridge and Phillip Street at 6pm, and in Melbourne on Thursday 18th of March, at Penthouse Mouse, 27 Little Collins Street, (enter via Coates Lane) at 6pm.
Purchase your tickets here