The twitterverse is aflame with an argument between some fashion journalists and the entire blogging world. The accusations go something like this: you’re an unemployed brandwhore sell-out, you’re old-fashioned, corporate and out of touch, I know you are, you said you are but what am I? And so forth.
One article on
Independent.co.uk reports how 13-year old blogger
Tavi Gevinson’s out-sized hat recently obscured the view of a much more senior fashion editor at the couture collections. It also quotes Robert Johnson from GQ as saying "Bloggers are so attractive to the big design houses because they are so wide-eyed and obsessed, but they don't have the critical faculties to know what's good and what's not”.
The article also highlights a perception that bloggers are naive mouth-pieces for PRs whose opinions are bought with gifts
An article on
Telegraph.co.uk labels the hugely popular blogger
Bryan Boy as unemployed, entirely missing the point that independent blogging can be as time consuming and credible as salaried journalism.
Bryan Boy hit back on Twitter, saying that magazines have long been beholden to advertising dollars.
Tavi hit back on her blog saying that commentary on her choice of hat is hardly interesting.
The online barney has arisen because more than ever, fashion is exciting and the print media’s dominance of distribution channels has slipped away. There is a lot to say, and the deluge of fashion blogs range from substantial analysis and reporting of trends and events, to voyeuristic outfit-porn and basic lists of likes and dislikes.
The inflammatory remarks are flying thick and fast, but in reality there’s not a whole lot of difference between smart fashion bloggers and switched-on fashion journalists.
Established print journalists like Hilary Alexander from the UK’s
Telegraph newspaper and Australia’s
Patty Huntington blog and use video content online. While bloggers also make it into print, like Matthew Jordan from shoe blog
Imelda.
Part of the fury seems to be fueled by the perceived threat of bloggers by established journalists. After all there is always a fear of the new when the old guard in any industry is challenged.
In the midst of this spat, some have forgotten what really matters. That is, delivering high quality, engaging and informing fashion commentary.
Jordan says “Providing you can support your argument and demonstrate a sound understanding of fashion history and trends - which the top shelf bloggers do – then what is print media's beef with bloggers?”
Suzy Menkes of The International Herald Tribune is one of the forward-thinking print journalists who have no such beef. In the following interview, she says she does not feel threatened, because she understands the need for blogs, the way PRs seed information with them to reach the right audience, and that older readers may never switch from print to online.
Menkes outlines what makes a good fashion blog, namely, the combination of a clear opinion, something to say and the ability to use all elements to make a strong statement. They are the same talents that make a good fashion journalist.
On Fashionblogs from Mary Scherpe on Vimeo.
In early 2010, the entire media landscape is changing day to day and no-one knows if the future of online will be paywalled, reliant on transactions, subscription-based or even government-run.
Fashion commentators that provide insightful analysis and high quality content will succeed while the mediocre will fall by the wayside. Those that don’t care for popularity or influence will continue to blog for their own pleasure.
A little humour will also not go astray. Matt Jordan once more. “Personally, I question why a 13 year-old child is blogging images of herself and attending the couture collections, when we all know, a child of Tavi’s age should be working in a coalmine!”