The colour black has many negative connotations. It is often associated with grief and death, as well as society’s dangerous sub-cultures. It may seem odd then, that such a dreary and sometimes threatening shade has come to be fashion’s trans-seasonal chameleon, and a wardrobe staple.
Sartorially speaking, black is the heart of style, the constantly beating epicenter from which everything else flows. Black, over decades of fashion, has come to signify elegance, expense, power and the indelible nonchalance of cultural rebellion. Black is the backbone of some of fashion history’s most iconic moments.
Now, following the offerings of Paris’ inspirational catwalks, black, perhaps for the first time, has come to represent femininity and fun, making it one of the hottest (figuratively and literally!) shades for summer.
As a sworn black devotee, Karl Lagerfeld, Givenchy and Ann Demeulemeester all caught my eye as leaders in the advent of black for the warmer months. All three collections had elements of femininity but all still had hints of that cool defiance that goes hand in hand with the monochrome ensemble.
At Lagerfeld, black was accompanied by white and navy blue, strict tailoring and graphic, bold silhouettes. The show had an easy sexuality but still with a subtle dash of trademark Lagerfeld edge. I adore the way Lagerfeld offsets the femininity of the collection with black patent embellishments.
It was a similar story at Givenchy, as structured black pieces were paired with tailored white shirts. Bejeweled, floaty, feminine fabrics in pink, tan and yellow juxtaposed feminine fancy with the austerity of the black, and denim offered a Western, rock’n’roll edge to the collection.
The rock aesthetic followed through to Ann Demeulemeester, whose moody collection, inspired by muse Patti Smith, was softened by the whimsical drapery, embelishments and tribal summer prints in the dresses.
Never the obvious choice for summer, the black horse of the colour spectrum takes the lead in next season’s fashion stakes. The key is contrasting edginess with feminine shapes and fabrics, with a distinct commitment to layering of textures, and of course a bit of skin!